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The jeweler in the Victorian era between splendour and danger

During the heyday of the Victorian era (mid-19th to early 20th centuries), an era characterized by strict social norms and a deep sense of decorum, one profession stood out in particular: the jewelers. These artisans and traders were known not only for their exquisite jewelry, but also, paradoxically, for their influence on fashion trends, which often carried a touch of scandal. The job description of a jeweler during this period encompassed far more than mere craftsmanship. Even then, outstanding skill in handling precious metals and stones wasn't enough; they also required a keen sense of aesthetics and fashion. The trend of the time was nipple piercings, the so-called "Anneux de Seins." This form of body jewelry represented an unusual contrast to the otherwise conservative fashion and etiquette of the time. They became a symbol of individuality and a rebellion against the strict conventions that characterized Victorian life and clothing. A fascinating connection between the dazzling world of jewelry and body modification dates back to Isabeau de Bavière, who is often credited as the first woman to boldly pierce her nipples. In the late 14th and early 15th centuries, this practice not only made a bold statement of personal freedom, but also supposedly sparked a trend among wealthy women of her time that quickly spread to other European royal families. Known as "ornate apples," nipple piercings adorned with sparkling diamonds and magnificent gold chains are an early example of how body art was entering the spheres of luxury and social status. Yet despite her daring style, Isabeau was not without controversy; her extreme promiscuity earned her much criticism in an often prudish society. But the glamour of this new trend also brought with it a dark side. At a time when medical knowledge was still rudimentary and antibiotics remained unknown, doctors warned of the risks associated with such body modifications. Inflammation and infection were common companions to these fashion trends, and although jewelers encouraged the liberation of personal style expression, many found themselves in a moral dilemma. Still, the question remains why women in some Western European cities in the 1840s were "almost expected to have their nipples pierced." Victorian jewelers were not only artisans but also cultural intermediaries who played a key role in this dynamic world of fashion and body art. Their ability to identify and promote contemporary trends made them influential figures whose legacy continues to resonate today.